Oud — agarwood — is the most prized material in perfumery and the one Egypt knows best. In Western perfumery it appears in many forms, from a hint of smoke in a designer fragrance to the centre of a rich niche composition. Here are the ones worth trying, from the easiest to the most serious.
Easy: oud as an accent
Versace Eros Najim wraps oud in mandarin, saffron and caramel over patchouli, vetiver and incense. Sweet, warm and approachable — a good first oud for people used to designer fragrances.
Mancera Red Tobacco puts oud and incense at the top, over tobacco and vanilla. More tobacco than oud, but the oud gives it its depth.
Middle: oud in balance
Maison Crivelli Oud Stallion — saffron, cardamom, jasmine and Turkish rose over agarwood, leather and cedar. Polished and wearable. More about the house in Maison Crivelli in Egypt.
Woud and Mood Absolute from Unique'e Luxury — saffron and citrus over guaiac wood, labdanum, oud, leather and nagarmotha. Dark, resinous and long-lasting.
Serious: oud at the centre
Ormonde Jayne Nawab of Oudh Intensivo — bergamot, orange oil, cardamom and pimento, a floral heart of rose, magnolia and orchid, and a base of agarwood, ambergris, vetiver and labdanum. Rich, floral and regal.
Roja Amber Aoud — citrus, rose, fig, ylang-ylang and jasmine over agarwood, ambergris, saffron and civet. Opulent in the way only Roja is.
Questions
What is oud in perfume?
Oud is the resin of the agarwood tree. In perfume it gives a deep, woody, smoky and sometimes leathery character.
Which oud fragrance should a beginner try?
Versace Eros Najim or Mancera Red Tobacco — oud is present, but softened by sweetness and spice.
How many wears is a Nawab of Oudh Intensivo sample?
The 2.5 ML sample gives about six to seven days of wear.